County Donegal

County Donegal
Contae Dhún na nGall
Coat of arms of County Donegal
Motto: Mutuam habeatis caritatem  (Latin)
"(Maintain among you) Mutual love or charity"
Location
Map highlighting County Donegal
Statistics
Province: Ulster
Dáil Éireann: Donegal North East, Donegal South West
County seat: Lifford
Code: DL
Area: 4,841 km2 (1,869 sq mi) (4th)
Population (2006) 147,264 (12th)
Website: www.donegal.ie

County Donegal (pronounced /ˈdɒnɨɡɔːl, ˌdɒnɨˈɡɔːl/ – Irish: Contae Dhún na nGall) is one of the twenty-six counties of the Republic of Ireland and one of the thirty-two counties of Ireland. It is located in the Province of Ulster. It was named after the town of Donegal (Irish: Dún na nGall). The population of the county is 147,264 according to the 2006 census.[1] In terms of size and area, it is the largest county in Ulster and the fourth largest county in all of Ireland.

Throughout history, it has sometimes been referred to as County Tirconaill, County Tirconnell or County Tyrconnell. The former was used as its official name during 1922–1927.[2] This is in reference to both the old túath of Tír Chonaill and the earldom that succeeded it.

Uniquely, County Donegal shares a border with only one other county in the Republic of Ireland, County Leitrim. The vast majority of its land border is shared with the Northern Irish counties of County Londonderry, County Tyrone and County Fermanagh. This apparent economic 'isolation'[3] has led to Donegal people maintaining a distinct cultural identity[4] and has been used to market the county with the slogan Up here it's different.[5] It has been labelled the "forgotten county" by its own politicians, owing to the increasing regularity with which it is ignored by the government, even in times of crisis.[6][7]

Much of the county is seen as being a bastion of Gaelic culture and the Irish language, the county holding the second-largest Gaeltacht area in the country with a population of 24,504.[5] Despite Lifford being the County town, the largest town is Letterkenny. Both Letterkenny and the nearby city of Derry form the main economic axis of the North-West of Ireland.[8]

Contents

History

Donegal Castle, seat of the O'Donnells.
Kilclooney dolmen near Ardara.

County Donegal is famous for being the home of the once mighty Clann Dálaigh, whose most famous branch were the Clann Ó Domhnaill, better known in English as the O'Donnell Clan. Until around A.D. 1600, the O'Donnells were one of Ireland's richest and most powerful Gaelic (native Irish) ruling-families. Within the Province of Ulster only the Clann Uí Néill (known in English as the O'Neill Clan) of modern County Tyrone were more powerful. The O'Donnells were Ulster's second most powerful clan or ruling-family from the early thirteenth-century through to the start of the seventeenth-century. For several centuries the O'Donnells ruled Tír Chonaill, a Gaelic kingdom in West Ulster that covered almost all of modern County Donegal. The head of the O'Donnell family had the titles An Ó Domhnaill (meaning The O'Donnell in English) and Rí Thír Chonaill (meaning King of Tír Chonaill in English). Based at Donegal Castle in Dún na nGall (modern Donegal Town), the O'Donnell Kings of Tír Chonaill were traditionally inaugurated at Doon Rock near Kilmacrenan. O'Donnell royal or chiefly power was finally ended in what was then the newly created County Donegal in September, 1607, following the Flight of the Earls from near Rathmullan. The modern County Arms of Donegal (dating from the early 1970s) was influenced by the design of the old O'Donnell royal arms. The County Arms is the official coat of arms of both County Donegal and Donegal County Council.

The modern County Donegal was shired[9] by order of the English Crown in 1585. The English authorities at Dublin Castle formed the new county by amalgamating the old Kingdom of Tír Chonaill with the old Lordship of Inishowen. However, the English authorities were unable to establish control over Tír Chonaill and Inishowen until after the Battle of Kinsale in 1602. Full control over the new County Donegal was only achieved after the Flight of the Earls in September, 1607.

County Donegal was one of the worst affected parts of Ulster during the Great Famine of the late 1840s in Ireland. Vast swathes of the county were devastated by this catastrophe, many areas becoming permanently depopulated. Vast numbers of County Donegal's people emigrated at this time, chiefly through the Port of Derry. Huge numbers of the county's people who emigrated were to settle in Glasgow in southern Scotland.

The Partition of Ireland in the early 1920s was to have a massive direct impact on County Donegal. Partition cut the county off, economically and administratively, from Derry, which had acted for centuries as the county's main port, transport hub and financial centre. Derry, together with West Tyrone, was henceforward in a new, different jurisdiction officially called Northern Ireland. Partition also meant that County Donegal was now almost entirely cut off from the rest of the jurisdiction it now found itself in, the new independent state called the Irish Free State, known since April 1949 as the Republic of Ireland. Only a few miles of the county is physically connected by land to the rest of the Republic. The existence of this 'border', cutting Donegal off from her natural hinterlands in Derry City and West Tyrone, has greatly exacerbated the economic difficulties of the county since partition. The county's economy is particularly susceptible, just like that of Derry City, to the currency fluctuations of the Euro against Sterling.

Added to all this, in the late twentieth-century, County Donegal was, by the standards of the rest of the Republic of Ireland, to be adversely affected by The Troubles in Northern Ireland. The county was to suffer several bombings and at least two assassinations. In June 1987, Constable Samuel McClean, a Donegal man who was a serving member of the R.U.C., was shot dead by the I.R.A. at his family home near Drumkeen. In May 1991, the prominent Sinn Féin politician Councillor Eddie Fullerton was assassinated by Loyalist paramilitaries at his home in Buncrana. This added further to the economic and social difficulties of the county. However, the Good Friday Agreement (G.F.A.) of April 1998 has been of great benefit to the county.

Local government

Donegal County Council (which has officially been in existence since 1899) has responsibility for local administration, and is headquartered at the County House in Lifford. The County council runs alongside Town Councils in Letterkenny, Bundoran, Ballyshannon and Buncrana. Both the County Council and Town Councils have elections every five years (alongside local elections nationally, and elections to the European Parliament), the last of which took place on the 5 June 2009. Twenty nine councillors are elected using the system of Proportional representation-Singe Transferable Vote (STV), across five electoral areas (Inishowen - 7 seats, Letterkenny - 7 seats, Donegal - 5 seats, Stranorlar - 5 seats, and Glenties - 5 seats. For general (national) elections, the county is divided into two constituencies, Donegal South West and Donegal North East, with both having three representatives in Dáil Éireann. For elections to the European Parliament, the county is part of the North–West constituency (formerly Connacht–Ulster).

Geography

Tra More Beach, Downings, the longest in Donegal, at 11 Km (7 Mi.) long.
Slieve League cliffs, the second tallest in Ireland.
Glengesh Pass, near Ardara.
Map of Donegal.

Physically, the county is by far the most rugged and mountainous in Ulster. The county consists chiefly of low mountains, with a deeply indented coastline forming natural loughs, of which both Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle are the most notable. The famous mountains or Hills of Donegal consist of two major ranges, the Derryveagh Mountains in the north and the Bluestack Mountains in the south, with Mount Errigal at 749 metres (2,457 ft) the highest peak. The Slieve League cliffs are the sixth-highest sea cliffs in Europe, while Donegal's Malin Head is the most northerly point on the island of Ireland.

The climate is temperate and dominated by the Gulf Stream, with warm, damp summers and mild wet winters. Two permanently inhabited islands, Arranmore and Tory Island lie off the coast, along with a large number of islands with only transient inhabitants. Ireland's second longest river, the Erne, enters Donegal Bay near the town of Ballyshannon. The River Erne, along with other Donegal waterways, has been dammed to produce hydroelectric power. The River Foyle separates part of County Donegal from parts of both County Londonderry and County Tyrone

An extensive rail network used to exist through out the county and was mainly operated by the County Donegal Railways Joint Committee and the Londonderry and Lough Swilly Railway Company (known as the L. & L.S.R. or the Lough Swilly Company for short). The Great Northern Railway (Ireland) L.t.d. (the G.N.R.) also ran a line from Strabane through The Laggan, a district in the east of the county, along the River Foyle into Derry. Even though the railways in Donegal are fondly remembered, the network was completely closed by 1960. Today, the closest railway station to the county is Waterside Station in the City of Derry, which is operated by Northern Ireland Railways (N.I.R.). County Donegal is served by both Donegal Airport, located at Carrickfinn in The Rosses in the west of the county, and by City of Derry Airport, located at Eglinton to the east. The nearest main international airport to the county is Belfast International Airport (popularly known as Aldergrove Airport), which is located to the east at Aldergrove, near Antrim Town, in County Antrim, around fifty-seven miles from Derry City and around seventy-five miles from Letterkenny.

County Donegal can be divided up into a number of traditional districts. In the west there is The Rosses (Irish: Na Rosa), centered on the town of Dungloe (Irish: An Clochán Liath), and Gweedore (Irish: Gaoth Dobhair). Both of these are formally Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) areas, although little or no Irish is spoken in Dungloe. In the county's north-west is Cloughaneely (Irish: Cloich Chionnaola), centered on the town of Falcarragh (Irish: An Fál Carrach), also in the Gaeltacht. Inishowen, Fanad and Rosguill are three peninsulas in the north of the county. Inishowen (centered on the town of Buncrana) is one of Ireland's largest peninsulas. In the east of the county is located the Finn Valley (centered on Ballybofey) and a district called The Laggan (this Laggan is usually spelled with two g's in order to distinguish it from the more famous Lagan Valley in the south of County Antrim. Donegal's Laggan is centered on the town of Raphoe). Both of these districts have very fertile land.

Culture

The Iron Age fortress Grianan an Aileach.

The variant of the Irish language spoken in Donegal shares traits with Scottish Gaelic. The Irish spoken in the Donegal Gaeltacht (Irish speaking area) is of the Ulster dialect, while Inishowen, which became English-speaking only in the early 20th century, used the East Ulster dialect. Ulster Scots is often spoken in both the Finn Valley and The Laggan district of East Donegal. Donegal Irish has a strong influence on learnt Irish across Ulster.

Like other areas on the western seaboard of Ireland, Donegal has a distinctive fiddle tradition which is of world renown. Donegal is also well known for its songs which have, like the instrumental music, a distinctive sound. Donegal musical artists such as the bands Clannad and Altan and solo artist Enya, all from Gaoth Dobhair, have had international success with traditional or traditional flavoured music. Donegal music has also influenced people not originally from the county including folk and pop singer Paul Brady. Popular music is also common, the county's most famous rock artist being the Ballyshannon born Rory Gallagher, Kilcar based indie band The Revs also had some good success in the Irish charts. A well known fiddler from Donegal is P.V. O'Donnell, though he currently lives in Manchester, Connecticut, in the United States.

Mount Errigal sits over Gweedore and Cloughaneely.
Kinnagoe Bay, Inishowen.

Donegal has a long literary tradition in both Irish and English. The famous Irish Navvy-turned novelist Patrick MacGill, author of many books about the experiences of Irish migrant itinerant labourers in Britain at around the turn of the 20th century, such as The Rat Pit and the autobiographical Children of the Dead End, is from the Glenties area. There is a literary summer school in Glenties named in his honour. The novelist and socialist politician Peadar O'Donnell hails from The Rosses in west Donegal. The Poet William Allingham was also from Ballyshannon. Modern exponents include the Inishowen playwright and poet Frank McGuinness and the playwright Brian Friel. Many of Friel's plays are set in the fictional Donegal town of Ballybeg.

Authors in Donegal have been creating works, like the Annals of the Four Masters, in Gaelic and Latin since the Early Middle Ages. The Irish Philosopher John Toland was born in Inishowen in 1670. He was thought of as the original freethinker by George Berkeley. Toland was also instrumental in the spread of freemasonry throughout Continental Europe. In modern Irish Donegal has produced famous, and sometimes controversial, authors such as the brothers Séamus Ó Grianna and Seosamh Mac Grianna from The Rosses and the contemporary (and controversial) Irish-language poet Cathal Ó Searcaigh from Gortahork in Cloughaneely, and where he is known to locals as Gúrú na gCnoc ("the Guru of the Hills").

Although approximately 85% of its population is Catholic, County Donegal also has a sizable Protestant minority. Most Donegal Protestants would trace their ancestors to settlers who arrived during the Plantation of Ulster in the early seventeenth-century. The Church of Ireland is the largest Protestant denomination but is closely rivalled by a large number of Presbyterians. The areas of Donegal with the highest percentage of Protestants are The Laggan area of East Donegal around Raphoe, the Finn Valley and areas around Ramelton, Milford and Dunfanaghy - where their proportion reaches up to 30-45 percent. There is also a large Protestant population between Donegal Town and Ballyshannon in the south of the county. In absolute terms, Letterkenny has the largest number of Protestants (over 1000) and is the most Presbyterian town (among those settlements with more than 3000 people) in the Republic of Ireland. Some County Donegal Protestants (mainly those concentrated in The Laggan and the Donegal Town/Ballintra areas) are members of the Orange Order, a controversial religious and social society.

Donegal has also contributed to culture elsewhere. One Donegal native, Francis Alison, was one of the founders of the College of Philadelphia, which would later become the University of Pennsylvania.[10] The Rev. Francis Makemie from Rathmullan founded the Presbyterian Church in America.

Places of interest

Glenveagh National Park.

With its sandy beaches, unspoilt boglands and friendly communities, Co. Donegal is a favoured destination for many travellers, Irish (especially Northern Irish) and foreign alike. One of the county treasures is Glenveagh National Park (formerly part of the Glenveagh Estate), as yet (February 2008) the only official national park anywhere in the Province of Ulster. The park is a 140 km² (about 35,000 acre) nature reserve with spectacular scenery of mountains, raised boglands, lakes and woodlands. At its heart is Glenveagh Castle, a beautiful late Victorian 'folly' that was originally built as a summer residence.

The Donegal Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking district) also attracts young people to County Donegal each year during the school summer holidays. The three week long summer Gaeltacht courses give young Irish people from other parts of the country a chance to learn the Irish language and traditional Irish cultural traditions that are still prevalent in parts of Donegal. The Donegal Gaeltacht has traditionally been a very popular destination each summer for young people from Northern Ireland. Scuba Diving is also very popular with a club being located in Donegal Town.

Festivals

Demographics

According to the 1841 Census, County Donegal had a population of 296,000 people. As a result of famine and emigration, the population had reduced by 41,000 by 1851 and further reduced by 18,000 by 1861. By the time of the 1951 Census the population was only 44% of what it had been in 1841.[11] The 2006 Census undertaken by the State's Central Statistics Office had Donegal's population standing at 147,264.

Education

Third-level education within the county is provided by Letterkenny Institute of Technology (L.Y.I.T.; popularly known locally as 'the Regional'), established in the 1970s in Letterkenny. In addition, many young people from the county attend third-level institutions elsewhere in Ireland, especially in Derry and also at the University of Ulster at Coleraine (U.U.C.), the University of Ulster at Jordanstown (U.U.J.), The Queen's University of Belfast ('Queen's'), and NUI Galway. Many Donegal students also attend the Limavady Campus of the North West Regional College (popularly known as Limavady Tech) and the Omagh Campus of South West College (popularly known as Omagh Tech or Omagh College).

Sport

Gaelic football and hurling

The Gaelic Athletic Association (G.A.A.) sport of Gaelic football is very popular in Donegal. Hurling is not such a big sport in the North-West of Ireland. Donegal's inter-county football team have won the All-Ireland Senior Football Championship title once (in 1992). In 2007 Donegal won only their second national title by winning the National Football League. The county senior hurling team has never managed a title. There are 16 senior G.A.A. Clubs in county Donegal, with many others playing at a lower level.[12]

Rugby Union

There are several Rugby union teams in the county. These include Ulster Qualifying League Two side Letterkenny RFC, whose ground is named after Dave Gallaher, the captain of the 1905 New Zealand All Blacks touring team, who have since become known as The Originals. He was born in nearby Ramelton.

Ulster Qualifying League Three sides include Ballyshannon RFC, Donegal Town RFC and Inishowen RFC.

Soccer

Finn Harps play in the League of Ireland and won promotion to the Premier Division in 2007 following a 6-3 aggregate win in the playoff final. They are now back alongside their arch-rivals Derry City F.C., with whom they contest Ireland's North-West Derby. No other Donegal teams have achieved the status of Finn Harps, but teams abound across the county.

Golf

Many people travel to Donegal for the superb golf links—long sandy beaches and extensive dune systems are a feature of the county, and many links courses have been developed. Golf is a very popular sport within the county, including world class golf courses such as Ballyliffin (Glashedy), Ballyliffin (Old),both of whch are located in the Inishowen peninsula. Other courses to note are Murvagh (located outside Donegal Town) and Rosapenna (Sandy Hills) located in Downings (near Carrigart). The Glashedy Links has been ranked 6th in a recent ranking taken by Golf Digest on the best courses in Ireland. The Old links was ranked 28th, Murvagh 36th and Sandy Hills 38th.

Bundoran is regarded as one of the best surfing spots in Ireland and Europe.

Cricket

Cricket is also played in County Donegal. This sport is chiefly confined to The Laggan district and the Finn Valley in the east of the county. The town of Raphoe and the nearby village of St Johnston, both in The Laggan, are the traditional strongholds of cricket within the county. The game is mainly played and followed by members of County Donegal's Protestant community.

Other sports

Donegal's rugged landscape lends itself to active sports like climbing, hillwalking, surfing and kite-flying.

Rock climbing is of very high quality and still under-developed in the county. There is a wealth of good quality climbs in the county, from granite rocks in the south to quartzite and dolerite in the north; from long mountain routes in the Poisoned Glen to boulder challenges of excellent quality in the west and in the Inishowen Peninsula.

Surfing on Donegal's Atlantic coast is considered to be as good as any in Ireland. The seaside resort of Bundoran, located in the very south of the county, along with nearby Rossnowlagh, have been 'reborn' as the centre of surfing in County Donegal. Indeed, these areas are renowned as the main surfing centres in Ulster.

People

See also Category: People from County Donegal

  • Adomnán - or Saint Eunan, Abbot of Iona 679-704.
  • Sir Alexander Armstrong - Arctic explorer.
  • Bridie Gallagher - singer.
  • Cathal Ó Searcaigh - Irish-language poet.
  • Clannad - folk and pop group.
  • Columba - or Saint Colmcille, one of the three patron saints of Ireland.
  • The Blessed Conor O'Devaney - Martyred by the English Crown.
  • The Most Rev. Dr. Daniel McGettigan - former Lord Archbishop of Armagh.
  • Daniel O'Donnell - singer.
  • Dave Gallaher - first All Blacks Rugby captain.
  • Enya - musician and singer.
  • Frank McGuinness - playwright.
  • Isaac Butt - barrister, M.P. and founder of the Irish Home Rule movement.
  • John Toland - philosopher.
  • Mary Coughlan - Tánaiste and TD.
  • The Most Rev. Dr. Michael Cardinal Logue - former Lord Archbishop of Armagh.
  • Packie Bonner - former goalkeeper.
  • Pat 'the Cope' Gallagher - MEP.
  • The Most Rev. Dr. Patrick Cardinal O'Donnell - former Lord Archbishop of Armagh.
  • Peadar O'Donnell - Irish revolutionary and socialist.
  • Red Hugh O'Donnell - second-last King of Tír Chonaill.
  • Rory Gallagher - guitarist and singer.
  • Séamus Ó Grianna - Irish-language novelist.
  • Shay Given - professional goalkeeper.
  • William Allingham - Victorian poet.
  • The Most Rev. Dr. George Otto Simms - former Lord Archbishop of Armagh and historian.
  • Willie Hay, M.L.A., current Speaker of the Northern Ireland Assembly.

Towns and villages

  • Annagry
  • Ardara
  • Ballintra
  • Ballybofey
  • Ballyliffin
  • Ballyshannon
  • Bridgend
  • Buncrana
  • Bundoran
  • Burtonport
  • Carndonagh
  • Carrigans
  • Carrigart
  • Castlefin
  • Churchill
  • Clonmany
  • Convoy
  • Creeslough
  • Donegal
  • Downings
  • Dunfanaghy
  • Dungloe
  • Dunkineely
  • Falcarragh
  • Fanad
  • Frosses
  • Glencolmcille
  • Glenties
  • Gortahork
  • Greencastle
  • Gweedore
  • Laghey
  • Letterkenny
  • Lifford
  • Kerrykeel
  • Kilcar
  • Killea
  • Killybegs
  • Kilmacrenan
  • Malin
  • Manorcunningham
  • Milford
  • Moville
  • Muff
  • Narin
  • Newtown Cunningham
  • Pettigo
  • Ramelton
  • Ranafast
  • Raphoe
  • Rathmullan
  • Rossnowlagh
  • St Johnston
  • Stranorlar
  • Teelin
  • Termon

Subdivisions

The Poison Glen, in North West Donegal.

Baronies

Parishes

Townlands

See also

Further reading

References

  1. ↑ Census 2006 - Population of each province, county and city
  2. ↑ Renamed "County Tirconaill" 1922 by resolution of the county council.(Place Name Confusion – Donegal or Tirconaill, The Irish Times, April 24, 1924). After historians and Gaelic scholars pointed out that the historic territory of Tirconaill did not include the whole county, the name Donegal was re-adopted in 1927 (Back to "Donegal", The Irish Times, 22 November 1927).
  3. ↑ http://www.sinnfeingeneralelection.com/en/topic/4
  4. ↑ http://www.donegal.ie/library/aboutdonegal/aboutdon.htm
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 Ireland Northwest.
  6. ↑ County 'wiped off crisis HQ maps'. The Belfast Telegraph. 21 April 2010.
  7. ↑ Donegal ‘disappears’ from crisis response maps. Ocean FM. 21 April 2010.
  8. ↑ http://www.sinnfein.ie/contents/16086
  9. ↑ Connolly, S.J., Oxford Companion to Irish History, page 129. Oxford University Press, 2002. ISBN 978-0-19-923483-7
  10. ↑ Who Was Who in America, Historical Volume, 1607-1896. Chicago: Marquis Who's Who. 1963. 
  11. ↑ Patterson, Edward M (1962). The County Donegal Railways. Dawlish: David and Charles. pp. 9–10. 
  12. ↑ Club GAA - Donegal -http://www.clubgaa.ie/donegal/index.htm
  13. ↑ For 1653 and 1659 figures from Civil Survey Census of those years, Paper of Mr Hardinge to Royal Irish Academy March 14, 1865.
  14. ↑ Census for post 1821 figures.
  15. ↑ http://www.histpop.org
  16. ↑ http://www.nisranew.nisra.gov.uk/census
  17. ↑ Lee, JJ (1981). "On the accuracy of the Pre-famine Irish censuses". In Goldstrom, J. M.; Clarkson, L. A.. Irish Population, Economy, and Society: Essays in Honour of the Late K. H. Connell. Oxford, England: Clarendon Press. 
  18. ↑ Mokyr, Joel; O Grada, Cormac (November). "New Developments in Irish Population History, 1700-1850". The Economic History Review 37 (4): 473–488. doi:10.1111/j.1468-0289.1984.tb00344.x. http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/120035880/abstract. 

External links

Commemorative Biographical of the Counties of Wayne and Holmes, Ohio 1889

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